Well in summary today seemed like an exceptionally long ride, probably the most draining so far. I didn't do much last night, just rode from my bungalow back into the small La Mae township to make my evening blog post and then headed straight back. Everything was closing shutters for the day when I arrived. It looked like most people were heading down to the festival where a stage had been erected for the new year celebrations. I had to recruit an english speaker from the convenience store to get a spot on a computer. After 3pm most internet cafes in Thailand are overrun with kids playing that dancing game - it was the same in Vietnam, though not quite this crowded. I had attached my lights incase it got dark while I was up there, and thankfully I got back just on nightfall as I was chased by no fewer than 15 dogs on the way back. No more of this backroads accomodation from now on I was thinking as I retreated to the safety of the compound. I'd hate to think what might have happened if I'd been weighed down with all my gear.
I knew it was coming, and the fireworks and karaoke singing went on until about three in the morning - right outside my front window. I'd had very little sleep by this time, and the earplugs provided no relief. I rose at about eight, feeling shite, slammed down a coffee over my eggs on toast, and followed that up with an icy mirinda and a packet of biscuits before heading out into the dog infested back streets of La Mae. It wasn't quite as bad on the way out, I only had a couple go me, my strategy of riding on the opposite side when I see a dog near the road works most of the time. On the highway the dogs aren't as much of a problem - most are kept tied up, and the ones that aren't don't last long - I saw two dead ones today - and two road accident scenes that had me seriously on edge. Up until now I was feeling confident in the slow lane with the motorbikers, but I had one car come flying up through the slow lane today on a corner - beeping at me as though I was the one at fault! So I rode as far to the left as possible for the rest of the day, nerves slighly frazzled from the heat and worry.
Lunch was interesting, there were guys wading around in the irrigation ditches near the cafe and I had been wondering why. When a guy came running up to cafe owner clutching a huge bag of frogs I figured out why. This was bit of a turn off, as I had no idea what strange meat, or other vile effluiva was concealed within the spicy broth I had ordered - I reassured myself it was boiled and therefore safe to eat. That leads me to another point about these roadside eateries -they serve such hot curries - I need to have a milk drink handy, usually an iced coffee to soothe my mouth - and I don't consider myself a pussy when it comes to chilli either.
The last 35 km was a real struggle, but I made it, completely exhausted. A roadside vendor noticed my fatigue as I neared Chumphon sipping on on yet another pepsi - and suggested a whisky pick me up - just the thing I thought as I politely refused. It was probably just the lack of sleep - and I hope to recuperate in the air-con tonight: the bungalow had offered little in the way of comforts - it didnt even really have a proper shower - just a hose on the floor of the tiled room.
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