Cambodia 2008

I haven't biked Cambodia yet, but I rode the temple complex in 2008. I saw almost all of the main ones in the Siem Reap area. It's pretty amazing, and as usual just try and avoid the crowds. I took these using a very old 35mm matsushita automatic exposure camera, and then scanned the photos.

The Bike

The bike I have built for this ride features an early 90's era Reynolds steel frame. Pictured above is the bike before I started a round of modifications to make it into a tourer. Steel racers of this era are great for touring, as the tubing isn't quite as thin and dent prone as modern racing steel. They do have very narrow chainstays though, so if you want to use anything more than a 28mm tyre in the back buy something else. After attempting to add certain other touring accessories that I originally overlooked (racks, fenders, etc) I would not use a steel racing frame if I had my time over again. They dont have the braze on's for adding any of these accessories. It was still possible to fit the rear rack, but ended up costing $280, and now its more difficult to remove the rear wheel.  Surly long haul trucker frames are so popular because they feature all of these things, and the FFF (fatties fit fine) dropouts accomodate very large tyres, up to 40mm I believe. There seem to be numerous other features that surly has added to the long haul trucker making it perhaps the ideal frame for long distance touring.

THE ALL IMPORTANT TOURING WHEELS

I have chosen 700c Mavic CXP33 rims, on ultegra 36h hubs, with SWISS DT alpine triple butted stainless steel spokes. As narrow touring wheels go this is about as strong as it gets. Mavic Open Pros are the only comparable rim, but the deeper section of a CXP33 makes for a stronger build due to the shortening of the spoke lengths. They are also thicker in their apex as they do not feature eyelets, so you would not expect these to crack. Whilst these are strong 700c rims, they would pale in comparison to the abuse MTB wheels can take. Not only this but 26" inch MTB wheels are available almost everywhere, particularly in Asia where 700c road bikes are unheard of outside of capital cities. So again, whilst I have got something that will roll fast on good roads, if I end up on bumpy, uneven surfaces the wheels just may fail. So if the bike survives this tour I will probably relegate this bike as a commuter and build up my old mountain bike into a dedicated tourer. On the front I have gone with a 700 x 32 Vittoria Randonneur Cross Pro Kevlar bead tyre, and on the back a 700 x 25 Schwalbe Marathon Plus. Maraton plus tyres have been known to survive up to 22,000 km before the tread wears out, and are also verifiably the most puncture resistant tyre available.

Other notable features are:

• S & S coupling - installed by Ewan Gellie, of Gellie Custom Bike Frames. I highly reccomend this framebuilder if you need a new frame, or want some modifications done. He did an excellent job of retrofitting this frame. 
  
• Tubus cargo rack - overpriced, but you get a 10 year guarantee against breakage, and if it does happen to break, anywhere in the world in the first 3 years they will send an express courier to deliver a new one.
• Rido PSG, (pressure shift geometry) saddle. Ugly as sin, but it works. Cheap as chips.
  
• Ortlieb ultimate 5 handlebar bag with camera insert and waterproof map case. This is a good lightweight, waterproof handlebar bag. I recommend it. Expensive however.
  
• I designed the canvas frame bag, and had a friend sew it. Works a treat but is wearing quickly, and is already covered in sweat and road grit. I would use vinyl if I was making another.
  
• Sci-con heavy duty vinyl panniers. Waterproof, strong, best panniers i've seen.
  
• Shimano friction shifters. Absolutely hideous shifters, that I got for $10 at Human Powered cycles in Thornbury. If your using triple chainrings on the front be aware that friction shifters tend to slip on the big ring; they cant handle the amount of cable tension needed to extend across 3 rings easily. Try and get something with a ratchet mechanism as it will stay in place better. These are only just working if I really crank down the shifter bolts.
  
• Sugino XD600 cranks. Outstanding value, attractive cranks. Made in Japan from forged aluminium. Chainring sizes 26t, 36t, 46t.
  
• Shimano Deore LX long cage rear MTB derailleur.
• Interloc Racing Design alpina-d, front derailleur. Cheap, but hard to find, and is a good match to the Sugino XD-600. Can be problematic getting it to align with the chainrings properly if you have a short bottom bracket spindle. I was told 113mm spindle would be fine. I would go a little longer (115) and you will be able to have it aligned properly parallel with rings.
• Shimano 13-34t cassette. 
• SRAM powerlink chains. Cheap, and I really like the powerlink feature.  

Equipment List

• Tool Kit - pliers, chain breaker, NBT2 cassette lockring tool, chain links, chain pins, 3 sets brake pads, S&S coupling wrench, small shifter, 13mm cone wrench, 3 puncture repair kits, zip ties, tyre levers, phillips & flathead drivers, set of metric allen keys, spare wheel magnet, fencing wire, hose clamps, craft knife, pocket knife, grease, PFTAE grease, tweezers, 8mm wrench, 4 derailleur cables, 4 brake cables, cr2032 batteries, ferrules, heat shrink tubing, cable crimps, lighter, mini drivers, gloves, chain lube, 10 spare spokes, spoke key, pump, 4 spare tubes, continental 700 x 28 top contact folding tyre, spare cleat bolts, various bolts.

• Medical - tinidazole for giardia, bactrim (broad spectrum antibiotic), 11 week supply of doxycycline for malaria, 80% DEET repellant, hand sanitiser, conforming bandage, betadine, band aids, scissors, imodium, saline rinse, buscopan (stomach cramps), cotton tips, medical advice book (from the travel doctor), water purification tables x 100, rehydration salts, multivitamin tablets, toothbrush / paste, sunscreen,  soap, razors, shampoo, mirror.

• Camping - MSR Hubba HP tent, Go-Lite -7° C sleeping bag, head torch, tiny chinese crank led crank torch, therma-rest guide lite mattress, orikaso folding bowl, spork, kathmandu laudry liquid, plug.

• Electrical - AA/AAA multi voltage charger, 8 AAA batteries, iMainGO2 speaker, sansa fuze 8 GB player, headphones, various power adapters, memory cards, camera, tripod, bike computer, rear and front lights.

• Clothing - polar fleece, north face synthetic pants, 6 pairs socks, 6 pairs underwear, 2 pairs shorts, 2 pairs padded lycra bike shorts, 3 shirts, thermals, gore windstopper jacket, disposable type waterproof poncho, thongs, dunlop volleys, cycling shoes.
  

Total Equipment Weight: 21.0kg
Including water - Weight: 24.0kg

Route Map Stage One - SE Asia & China

Stage one of the ride will begin in Phuket, Thailand  from where I will head up the Andaman coast and into the bustling SE asian metropolis of Bangkok.

Leaving Bangkok my route heads northeast through the old capital Ayutthaya, Kham Ping, Udon Thani and finally into Laos at Vientiane. In Laos the scenery promises to become more heavily forested, with karsk mountains and a reputedly relaxed and welcoming populous. I will ride the popular route up the national highway, through historic Luang Phrabang, and passing through Pak Mong, Udomxai and the Banna forrest finishing in Mohan on the Chinese border.


Once across the Chinese border I will be in Yunnan province, home to the richest temperate forests on earth. I have deliberately avoided looking at too many photographs of this region, but I know it will be an amazing ride. In Yunnan I will pass through the towns of Jinghong, Shangyun, Lincang and finish in Dali. That will be the end of the SE asian leg. I expect it to take around 60 days, and should total about 3400km.

Lorne Preamble

8th November 2009

Lorne preamble was HOT. 35deg but still a great ride, and well worth it, arriving at the beach and cooling off after 4-5 hours of pedaling; very rewarding. Still love coasting down the 10km descent through the Otways, and will definitely do it again, however no backpacks next time. Returning to rack and panniers, as backpacks and extreme heat don't mix. They also cause neck pains, which went away quite quickly but could do without these on a long tour. Still cant fault the frame bag, I think its definately a keeper. Stay tuned for route maps of upcoming Asia trip.

NEW GEAR ! - PICKS OF THE BEST STUFF I'M CURRENTLY USING

 FRAME BAGS

I stole the idea from Eric Parsons in Alaska. He makes all sorts of space saving bicycle accessories under the name of Epic Designs. Eric also rides a pretty crazy looking bike with tyres wide enough to deal with snow. The frame bags took my eye in particular as they allow you to shed the extra weight/bulk of a rear rack, and are more aerodynamic. Even though aerodynamics are not that critical at touring speeds, you would notice the difference in a headwind. Crosswind performance is apparently no worse than panniers. I made mine from silicone coated canvas, so far its been 90kms and works well. Hardly weighs anything, 200g max. Eric will custom make you one, if hes not on tour that is.

THE NEXT BEST THING 2

The next best thing 2 (NBT2) is a tiny, cassette lockring tool weighing just 26g and is cast in high strength stainless steel. It functions by inserting into the splined interface of the cassette lockring, and is so narrow it will sit flush with axle nut (see picture), allowing the wheel to be installed with the tool in position. Once inserted the QR skewer is used to secure it in place and you detension the cassette lockring by simply turning the cranks forward. As the cranks turn, so does the cassette, and in turn the tab on the NBT2 is forced into the right chainstay placing torque onto the lockring. For tensioning the lockring you simply turn the wheel backwards 45degrees.

In my case, the use of a 7speed cassette on a 9 speed hub laced into a wheel with a short axle (built for 126mm  dropouts) meant the tool would not insert all the way, and it sat slightly proud of the axle nut. I tested it on my mountain bike which uses a 9 speed cassette on a longer axle (built for 135mm dropouts) and it fit perfectly. A local engineer managed to shave the required 2mm off the tool, and we got it working with my hybrid wheels. I dont think you would have any problems if you are using the right size hub for your frame. I have tested the tool 3 times and it functions just as the manufacturer describes and has shaved around 700g of my tool kit, now I can leave the chain whip and lockring wrench at home. This tool will only work with shimano compatible lockrings. Retails for around $35 AUS. See the manufacturers website for details - the NBT2 is in the 'hard to find' tab, 3/4 of the way down in the left menu bar, can also be mail ordered through Spa Cycles in the UK. 

LEZYNE HPG MICRO FLOOR DRIVE PUMP WITH GUAGE

This pump is so well designed it is a work of art. I am impressed with it in so many ways. I have only used it a handful of times but it inflated my tyres to 80psi with ease, and with the inline guage you know they are at the right pressure, so no risk of pinch flats or poor handling. This is a rare thing in a portable pump weighing just 191g. The pump is supposed to inflate up to 160psi, but I ride schwalbe 700 x 25's so I don't need to go any higher. There is also a stainless steel foot peg, meaning you can get more force into each stroke, and a nice long rubber hose with a reversible valve connection (presta/schrader), so the force of pumping doesn't transfer onto the fragile connection of the valve and the tube. The pump is made from CNC machined aluminium throughout. My only criticism is that the threads on the valve connector are aluminium and would strip over time or with heavy use. In fact i've never really used anything much with aluminium threads that hasn't stripped after a while. Hopefully future versions will use steel threads. The other thing is that the pump is rated to 160psi, but the gauge only goes to 120, not that I ever use pressures that high, but some roadies might. These issues aside, this is still a really great pump. Purchase high quality Lezyne pumps now from www.biking.com

Touring Việt Nam in 2007

A PREVIOUS CYCLING TOUR OF VIETNAM IN 2007