Vientiane to Ban Keun - 65km

 Left at nine, headed out of Vientiane along Lane Xang, the central boulevard that passes though the faux champs eleyses. According to my map this should have continued on as highway 13, but after crossing several roundabouts, checking my directions at every turn I was lost. The compass told me I was heading in the right direction, and indeed the locals assured me I was on the road to Vang Vieng, so I eventually worked out I was on route 10, a secondary road running more or less parralel to the highway. It started out as bitumen, but after 30km or so it became packed dirt and very narrow. Again I thought I must have taken a wrong turn somwhere. There were concrete markers for the bitumen part, indicating route 10, but these stopped in the transition to dirt. In the back of my mind I was worried I had taken another wrong turn, but since I was enjoying the ride and heading north I thought worst case scenario I ask someone to camp on their property. Several kilometres futher along the dirt road ended at a river with no bridge. On the other side was a crude barge consitsting of two longtail boats in parrarel joined by wooden planks creating a flat catamaran hulled transport. I waited for quite some time before it made the crossing to my side of the river, where a bicycling monk and a couple of motorbikers had assembled waiting for transit.

On the other side I passed through several neat looking farming communities, busily going about their daily chores. The few people I did pass were carrying farming implements on their motorbikes, and there were collections of beautifully woven tools and specially shaped collecting baskets on hand. The students were for some reason riding to school around midday, straight backed atop old fashioned bikes, shading themselves with parasols. The whole spectacle was very pretty, rural Lao looks like it will make for good touring. I had to keep reminding myself not to stray far off the roads when photographing as undetonated cluster bombs and land mines are very common.

Being quite absorbed in the events of the day, I had forgotten to eat, so I stopped and bought a bunch of bananas. I sat down at the table next to the store, and next thing I know this dog has woken up from underneath the table and is licking the back of my leg. I had somehow obtained a wound there during the day, I think I slipped and cut my leg on the chainrings. There was quite a bit of dried blood surrounding the wound, and running down the back of my leg. The dog had obviously taken a liking to it - so that was it, my day ended abruptly and I spent the next few hours trying to get a ride back to the capital for post exposure rabies shots. Don't bother with either the Mahosot Hospital or the International Clinic nearby, unless you have no other options. The doctor at the international clinic wasn't even aware rabies required a post exposure treatment. When I explained the way it works he said I would have to find the vaccine at a pharmacy and then he could administer it. The Australian clinic, which is part of the Australian embassy closes at four, so your best bet for after hours medical care is the French run Centre Medical in boulevard Khou Vieng. They close at seven, but you can call a mobile and they will open after hours. It is also extremely difficult to find. It does not face Khou Vieng, you have to get onto another sort of service road running parralel, and the clinic is in a small white building within a soccer field. Even once I had finally located the tiny round sign, I had a hard time finding which part of the buidling houses the clinic. Made it there by six pm, and got the shot, four hours after the exposure so I should be sweet. Unfortunately this is the only medical clinic with rabies vaccines between here and possibly Kunming so my only choice is to stay in Lao for 14 days when I have to take another post exposure shot.

Thought I would include this information in my post, as I have discovered effective medical treatment is not widely available in both Laos and Cambodia. Most people suggest travelling to Bangkok as soon as possible. The French run clinic is one of the most modern and professional establishments in Vientiane.  Details below.

CMAF Centre Medical de l’Ambassade de France

Accepts all foreigners, but is not allowed to treat Lao citizens.

Tel: (021) 214-150 Mobile: (020) 558-4617 cmaflao@gmail.com
Emergency - Try the Mobile Number Above or call 020-655 4794 (24 hrs)
Near Wat Simuang and Green Park Hotel on Bvd Kouvieng on the football field opposite Nong Chan Park (not easy to find and not yet well known). Dr Jean-Marie Hospied (years of experience with SOS in Asia) and a French dentist , has lab and USG, no X-ray. Physiotherapy, speech therapy. Pharmacy. Can check Troponin and get a lysis done. Has rabies vaccine and snake serum. 1 room for observation. Vacuum mattress for transports, can organize ambulance with doctor.